DISTINGUISHED BEANS
Reviewing the best in craft chocolate
Firetree
Based in Peterborough, England, Firetree Chocolate has a unique focus on cacao from volcanic soils. Their website states: "The long finish and lingering t
taste of our chocolate is due to the firetree, or cacao tree, which thrives on the uniquely rich, porous soils of remote volcanic islands. Firetree’s superior beans yield a distinct depth and complexity."
Solomon Islands Guadalcanal 100%
Review coming soon
Indonesia Seram Island 72%
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Aroma: Warm, dry earth, mineral, cocoa powder, cocoa mulch,
Flavor: Wonderful, full flavor; rich and creamy. Chocolate pudding, macadamia nuts, a hint of mushroomy earth, and a little red fruit – raspberry - but not much acidity. Very low bitterness, very low astringency.
Recommendation: Recommended. The flavor is unique and interesting, similar to what I have noticed in other Indonesia bars. It is mellow but complex, low acidity, good richness, would probably make a lovely drinking chocolate.
Madagascar Sambirano Valley 84%
Flavor: Bold acidity, yet smooth, with notes of coffee and rich chocolate flavors. Very little bitterness, especially for an 84% bar. Virtually no astringency.
Recommended: Recommended. This is an intense bar – very tangy – and might not be for everyone, but I think it’s very well done and a great example of Malagasy cacao. If you like chocolate with bright acidity and red fruit flavors, you’ll love it! If tangy/red fruit notes in chocolate aren’t your favorite, check out some of the other bars from Firetree: their Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea bars are mellow and complex, and come from hard to find origins!
Batch info: Batch 0231 96; Best by February 2022
Solomon Islands Guadalcanal 69%
Flavor: Mineral, dry wood, some tanginess – dried cherry, starchy creaminess – like a marshmallow, chocolate buttercream frosting, coconut, coffee grounds,
Recommended: Recommended. Pleasant flavors, and fun to try something from a less common origin.
Batch info: 0177 86; Best by December 2021
Philippines Mindanao Island 73%
Aroma: honey, beeswax, figs, dates, cocoa powder, a little fruitiness, warming to wood
Flavor: banana bread- very distinct, very ripe banana, slight funk, hint of mineralness, virtually no bitterness or astringency, also low acidity, a light note of dried cherry or cranberry but not as a main flavor. A little more cranberry, black tea when chewed. When fully melted, more fruity acidity emerges.
Recommendation: Recommended. Very pleasant, good complexity, and a nice example of this origin that is somewhat harder to find.
Batch info: 0233 98; Best by February 2022
Solomon Islands Makira Island 75%
Aroma: earthy – damp, mushroom, not mold, spring rain earthiness, cocoa powder, hint of fruit – dried cherry, trail mix, classic chocolate, hot cocoa with marshmallows
Flavor: Mellow and sweet with classic chocolate notes. Chocolate cookies, cocoa powder, seeds – flax, cookie dough with brown sugar, Virtually no bitterness or astringency; really creamy,
Recommendation: Highly recommended – mellow, pleasant flavors plus a unique origin make this a really fun bar. This is one of the only easily available bars made with cacao from the Solomon Islands, so it makes a great addition to a tasting of different origins.
Batch info: Batch no. 0176 78; Best by December 2021
Vanuatu Malekula Island 72%
Aroma: root cellar, cocoa powder, fruity brightness, cherry soda, tropical fruit candy, grape juice
Flavor: Sweet, with a nice mix of cocoa and fruit flavors. Almost candy-like bursts of fruitiness - juicy red fruit, citrus/tropical fruit, green grapes, pineapple; a distinct tanginess. Creamy and tart at the same time like cacao pulp or cherimoya. Also cocoa powder, chocolate cookies, hazelnut, Nutella.
Recommendation: Highly recommended. Quite sweet with good complexity. This bar could be 80 or even 85% and still be really nice as there is so little bitterness or astringency.
Batch info: Batch no. 0177 92; Best by December 2021
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Papua New Guinea Karkar Island 72%
Aroma: cocoa powder, sweetgrass, hay, hazelnuts, a hint of smoke
Flavor: Lots of natural sweetness. Some red fruit, cherry, a little acidity. Also tangy tropical fruit with a nice creaminess, like a strawberry-pineapple-banana smoothie. Rich chocolate flavors – ganache, chocolate buttercream. A hint of earthy funk like mellow pleasant mushroom (note – not a mold flavor; a faint earthy richness that is common in beans from this region).
Recommendation: Highly recommended. A lovely range of flavors melding well, and the best example I have had of Papua New Guinea beans.
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Batch info: Batch no. 0236 88; Best by February 2022
Solomon Islands Guadalcanal 100%
Aroma: cocoa powder, hazelnut
Flavor: so good! Very little bitterness or astringency; lots of natural sweetness, red fruit tanginess - raspberry. Macadamia nut/heavy cream richness. Outstanding!! One of the best 100% bars we have ever had. Cocoa powder, a light chocolate cake.
Recommendation: Highly recommended. Good flavor and a notable lack of bitterness.
Batch info: Batch no. 0176 80; Best before Dec. 2021
Philippines Mindanao Island 73%
Aroma: wood, spice, earthy, raisin
Flavor: Sweet, fruity, dates, raisins, honey, caramel. A nice mix of fresh red and dried fruit. A slightly flat starchy note, but it doesn’t detract from the overall flavor.
Recommendation: Recommended.
Batch info: Batch no. 9176; Best by June 2020